Helped get rid of the rotten egg smell in my hot water heater.

worked perfect

Don't know results but install was easy now it's inside WH can't see it so I suspect it's working.

Worked out great for its purpose

Perfect!

Easy to install. Works great .

Just replaced my 10 year old rod. I bought a shallow socket but a deep one would be better. Not to remove but to reinstall. When feeding the jointed rod in the nut becomes canted and i had to use an extension to get the heavily wrapped threads to square them up. Also my DeWalt 3/8 impact would budge the rod. Used a breaker bar with pipe to remove. Keep the rods as straight as you can going back into the tank. Added javex to kill bacteria will update to see if the combo rod clears up the rotten egg smell

44 / 4 is 11". I had 21" space between too of 69 gallon tank and basement ceiling. All good. So far the water no longer smells. The Autotrol water softener system cleared most of the manganese and iron, enough to make the water almost clear. But the hot water smelled. After flushing twice, second time with a little bleach, and installing the aluminum - zinc rod, so far no smell. It's been a few days.

I needed to get a sectioned anode because of lack of head room. It is cable versus a rod so be aware it does not hang quite straight so just maneuver till it hangs down. I also had to grip the top of anode, 1-1 /16 " screw plug it is attached to in order to get the threads started without cross threading, the CG is off because of the cable " memory" so by hand I could not get threads square without more control or force. Vise grips let me control the eccentricity.Otherwise it was exactly what I wanted and it was delivered - fast!

If we could’ve gotten our old one out, it would’ve fit perfect. It would’ve been what we needed, but we couldn’t get the old one out and we were told just to leave it go.

I live in a condominium where all our resident building water heaters are located inside a community shared closet. Our condo maintenance closet has limited vertical space over the top space of all the water heaters. This anode rode is foldable, and is exactly what I needed to easily insert it inside my 40 gallon water heater tank. Fit perfectly and installed with ease.

Works well with hard water. Too bad it doesn't ship from Canada. Had to pay import fees and shipping.

Perfect for "rotten egg" smell and water heaters that don't have a lot of space above them:I live in the country and have well water. Replaced my water heater recently due to an electrical be issue. After I installed new heater, hot water developed "rotten egg" smell. Classic for well water and standard magnesium anode rod.This is how I used this product in my 40 gallon electric water heater. I'm not a professional nor do I claim to be. Follow this advice at your own risk. I'm just a home owner that replaced it myself.Turn off power at the breakers, valve for inlet water, then drain about 3 gallons of water out of the heater prior to work. Drain my using opening the valve at the bottom of the heater and opening the purge valve located close to the top. You'll want to have a standard garden hose connected to the drain valve or something to catch the water with. You want to keep most the water in the heater for weight as the original anode rod is very tough to remove.Find the plastic cap on top of the water heater labeled anode (check your owners manual for location of not labeled). Remove cap and save. Next, you'll need a knife to remove the couple inches of foam insulation concealing the 1 1/16" bolt head to the rod. Starting along the edge, I pressed the knife down until it hit metal then cut along the circle hole. Try to remove foam in as whole of a piece as possible. Do not discard the foam "plug" you have cut out. Set aside foam and plastic cap for later.Now you have access to the rod. You'll need a 1 1/16" deep socket and a breaker bar or impact. I attempted this with a breaker bar and still couldn't get it to break free without the water heater moving. I tried with all my might. (I'm in my 30s and 6'2 - 250 lbs). Ended up using a 18v milwaukee impact. Worked like a charm. I highly recommend.Once free, remove the anode rod. I had to use needle nose pliers to grab it as it was a few inches below the top of the heater and couldn't get my fingers in there to reach it. If you do not have room to pull the rod out in one piece, you can cut it in sections as you remove it. I used vise grips to hold below where I was cutting so it wouldn't fall into the water heater. I can't stress enough to prevent this from happening. You cut the top off and the bottom falls in... You'll have fart water forever. I used a 18v milwaukee sawzall with bi-metal blade.If you don't want or don't have the means to cut the rod, you can do a second option. I don't recommend and didn't do this option as it makes you disconnect utilities you might not feel comfortable handling.(Second option)Drain most the remaining water out of the heater using the drain valve at the bottom. Not all. You do not want to expose the heating elements at the bottom of the heater. Detached the cold water inlet and hot water output plumbing from the heater. Have something handy to catch residual water in the lines. Disconnect the electrical wires coming in to the water heater. Make sure the power is off and that there is no voltage at the water heater prior to touching. Test with voltage tracer or meter. If you don't feel comfortable or capable, NO NOT TOUCH ELECTRICAL UNLESS YOU KNOW IT'S SAFE! Now you can lean the heater over near horizontal and pull the rod out in one piece. Remember to put back the heater in roughly the same location and orientation. Then reconnect the plumbing and electrical.This next step I did is optional but will remedy the smell in your water heater. Poor 16 oz of hydrogen peroxide for 40 gallon heater to cleanse the egg smell from your tank and plumbing. This ended the smell in my lines almost instantly.After removing the rod, clean any debris that may be in the hole or on the threads in the water heater. Get your new anode rod and put teflon tape on the threads for sealant. Install into water heater. Tighten with impact or breaker bar with 1 1/16" socket. I tightened with impact THEN the breaker bar for added measure.Remember that foam plug and plastic cap? Put the insulation back over the top of the anode rod and then seal back off with the plastic cap.Turn cold water inlet valve back on. Allow water to fill. Once full, turn power back on at breaker.Allow time to heat and let the peroxide work. After an hour, go to your furthest hot water spout and run it for a few minutes. Then run all the others for a few minutes. This isn't necessary but will help flush out all the smell out of the lines.You are done!Mine has been installed over a week and not even a hint of the smell has returned.Remember to change you anode rod every 2 to 3 years as it is a sacrificial rod and will dissolve away in tank.Good luck! Remember, if you don't feel comfortable, call a professional.