Works great when bonding plastic and sealing off leaks in plumbing glue joints.

I can’t comment on how well it will do on a pressurized pvc pipe.Jeez, work with a fan blowing, or a charcoal filter respirator: this is stinky stuff.Dries to a hard white plastic in 30 minutes.Messy, runny, effective on a pvc drain pipe. Wear gloves.

Problem: Hot Tub / Spa experienced freeze damage over the winter causing PVC pipes within the spa cabinet to crack. In my case, several manifolds that were difficult to replace and having many connected hoses. One of the manifolds was severely damage from the freeze.Question: Replace or repair. Of course, replacing the cracked PVC components is the preferred solution. But, the cost and time of the repairs make if difficult if not impossible if you're not an experienced spa repair person. So, in my case, repair made the most sense.What product? Weld-on 810 and Plast-aid appear to be the two products best known for this task. Are they the same? No, although they're both advertised to tackle this job.So, which product did I use? Well, I used both. But first, the differences between the two products. Plast-aid is a two-part epoxy-like material (Part A is a liquid & Part B is a powder). For the average homeowner trying to perform this type of repair, Plast-aid is easier to use and is less messy. But it's not the best choice in some scenarios (see below). It sets up quickly and you'll likely need multiple layers to ensure coverage (watch their online videos). Weld-on 810 is also a two-part epoxy-like material (where Part A is a clear gel and Part B is a white paste). The Weld-on mix uses a 13-to-100 ratio, a bit difficult to measure and I suspect most pros use the entire contents at once since the parts are pre-measured and the Weld-on 810 is intended for larger jobs. The Weld-on 810 mix is also messy to apply and I found the best way is simply apply it with my fingers while wearing nitrile gloves (doubled up & at least 6 mil each). The Weld-on 810 has a little more working time than the Plast-aid, but, not much more. The Plast-aid fully cures rock-hard within 30 minutes. The Weld-on 810 takes at least 24 hours to fully cure and is very tough at that point but not quite as hard as the Plast-aid. So, since I purchased both products and had a good deal of damage to repair, I chose to use the Plast-aid first on a easily accessible manifold by covering the cracks with a bead of about 1" total (1/2" either side of the crack). Because my cracks were compound fractures that also spanned multiple manifolds and spiraled around to the back side of the pipes, I applied several coats of Plast-aid to ensure I didn't miss any cracks. These products meld into the PVC and are fairly aggressive. After the Plast-aid cured (30 minutes), I coated the entire manifold with the Weld-on 810 product, applying the paste-like material with my fingers (while wearing nitrile gloves). Although applying the topcoat of the Weld-On 810 was likely unnecessary, I needed assurance of no leaks in this part of the tub because I wouldn't be able to get back to this area once the tub was moved back into place. The result isn't pretty, but, the result also produced no leaks.In the case of another manifold that had severe damage to the under & back side (difficult to get to), I used the Weld-on 810 product alone since I couldn't see the damage (I could only feel the crack). In this case, I glazed the entire manifold with the paste-like Weld-on 810 product, again applying with my fingers and trying to achieve full coverage. The Plast-aid is too runny and sets up too fast for this application.So, which product do I recommend? Well, it depends. If you have good access to the damage, I would likely use the Plast-aid since it is easier to use and makes less mess. If you instead have questionable or difficult access to the damage or the damage is to the underside of the PVC, the Weld-on 810 may be your product of choice. It will make a bigger mess, but, it provides good coverage and goes on like molasses. Regardless, both are 5-Star products in my opinion and provide impressive results. I have provided some pics here where the red outline was traced to provide a guide while applying the Plast-aid. Pic 1 shows the cracks before applying Plast-aid. Pic 2 shows the Plast-aid applied to the cracks. Pic 3 shows the Weld-on 810 applied to a different PVC manifold that had underside damage. Either product will do the job. Which product to use depends on where the crack(s) are. My recommendation: if you're diving into a spa freeze situation and you don't know where the cracks are, get both products. You'll likely have a need for both depending on the location of cracks. If you have to buy only one product, the Weldon 810 is more versatile. And, if you suspect multiple cracks (likely with a spa freeze situation), I recommend getting the next larger size Weldon 810 product (it will save money). Also, note the mixture ratio to avoid unusable leftover product.As for tips: 1. watch the Plast-aid videos and 2. practice using both products on some scrap PVC before diving into the task.

This epoxy is awsome just remember to prep the piece before applying, a rubbing with 220 grit should do just dandy

I use this for PVC repairs. This is the BEST stuff. It super bonds the pvc and will not leak. Very good price.

This product works perfect for hard to reach fittings on my hot tub. I ruffed the surrounding surface of the pvc with sand PAPER, mixed the two components together, and spread it on the crack. Let dry for 24 hours or so. Worked like a dream!

Used to patch repair my hot tub, much cheaper than the $90 repair kit from spa. only needed 1/10 of this. followed directions and it went great. need to do this in vented area, work fast as it got sticky in about 5 min. note cracks should be drilled on the ends to stop them and let this get into the material. 24 hr to dry. water tight.

Fixed a leaky drain in the bottom of my shower.. I wasn't sure where the water was leaking so I just "resclupted" the whole mess and it harden very well on the flexible bottom..