It was this… or throw the old one out and buy another one. I saved hundreds by not buying a new dishwasher.

They sure don’t last .

saved me buying a new dishwasher

Why cheaper than buying from whirlpool but looks and fits identical.

The replacement is not too hard if you are mechanically inclined. My washer is a Kenmore 665.1340, but it is quite similar inside to a number of models sold under different names, Whirlpool, for example.Here's the procedure. Turn off the power at the breaker box. Don't skip this step. Remove the two screws the hold the front of the dishwasher to the bottom of the countertop in front. Pull the dishwasher out a little ways, slowly, while making sure the two hoses and electrical wire underneath don't get hung up on something on the bottom of the dishwasher. There may be enough slack in the three connections to allow the washer to come all the way out. If not, disconnect the three before you slide it out too far. Disconnect the discharge hose (pressure fit), the inlet water connection (probably more than finger tight; use pliers), and the power (metal box with power wire going to it. (Did you turn the breaker off??) It makes the job a lot easier if you turn the dishwasher upside down. Really. It's not hard to do. Water will come out of the discharge hose and out of the motor when you remove it. Have a towel handy.The motor is held in by three connections: a single pinch-type hose clamp on the output hose, the friction of the input port that fits into a rubber port, and a plastic arm that inserts into a rubber grommet. No screws! The motor hangs in mid air, which is nice for making it quiet. Unplug the motor. The connector has a plastic tab that must be pressed outward to release the connector. The single hose clamp that you must deal with is a pinch type, so you will either need to work the hose off with the clamp still in place (it does come off that way), or you will need to release the clamp somehow. You can get the clamp to loosen up by twisting the crimp knob back and forth a bit with pliers--gently. I suppose you could cut it off, but I don't think that is necessary or wise. Remove the hose clamp, and work the motor assembly back and forth while pulling to get it free. Install the new pump using a little dishsoap on the inner surfaces of the rubber hoses to ease installation. It's nearly impossible to shove the pressure fit connection together if it's dry. Deal with the hose clamp somehow. It's a narrow clamp, not the usual width of clamp with the screw tightener. I couldn't find one locally. I elected to "fix" the pinch clamp by bending it back to its original shape and putting it back on. I was able to shove the hose on without too much trouble, helped by dish soap. I'm not recommending this strategy... well, maybe I am. I'm just saying that if you don't have a new 2" pinch clamp and a set of pinch clamp pliers, you're going to have to innovate. I suppose a 1/4" wide zip tie pulled nice and tight would work well, too.Hook 'er up and see what happens. Watch for leaks while running a cycle. Have some tea or another beverage, depending on the time of day. Good luck.Note well: This pump, the W10510667, can replace the W11032770 (formerly W10529163). Other reviewers have pointed this out, and I took a chance on the basis of their experience and the similarity in appearance of the *10667 and the *32770. The pump is electrically and mechanically the same. The *32770 is nearly three times the price as the *10667. The *10667 that I got looked slightly different from the *32770, a difference in manufacturer I suspect, but it was dimensionally and functionally identical.Another review noted that the original pump that failed did so because the sleeve bearings inside the pump went bad so that the spinning part of the motor wobbled. Mine failed in the same way. It sounded horrible when I ran it on the bench, and the impeller moved noticeably from side to side. The presenting symptom is that the dishwasher will fill but not wash--no spray action. Mine would spray a little and then quit, or only spray in the middle. The motor was able to start occasionally, but not always, due to the bad bearings.

Works

There is a long, long story that goes with this review, but I'm going to spare you and just say the important parts.This replaced and fit perfectly on my Whirlpool WDF770SAFZ0 machine. The replacement part called for part number W11032770, but this looks and fits exactly the same. I can't really figure out what's different (if anything).Replacing it was simple. I just flipped over the machine and removed a few screwed on items. There are videos on YouTube. It took me about an hour and I'm just your average joe. I did have to get another screw-type clamp since I didn't have the special crimping tool to tighten the hose. It cost $2 dollars at my local home improvement store.My machine was on/off broken for about 1.5 years and I nearly went insane trying to figure out why. This fixed it and it works perfectly now. I saved a ton of money too. Sanity restored.UPDATE 11/26/2020: This replacement failed just over a year after I bought it. I started having the same problem of filling with no washing. I ordered this part again and swapped out and the machine works perfectly again. Estimated life... Not much more than one year.

the PROBLEM:Let me start by saying that it appears that this pump is very common across the various whirlpool brands family of dishwashers. Dependent on usage frequency, the dishwasher will stop circulating water within a year to two years. The machine will fill, drain and dry, but it will not wash the dishes. At first sign of the symptom it may be an intermittent problem indicative of a controller failure. In our case this was not the source of the problem. The cause is the failure of the motor bearing sleeves (bushings). Two bushings holding the rotor (the part with the impeller attached circulates the water) centered in the housing assembly, however due to a design flaw, over time the bushing will fail to stay securely to in place and will cause the rotor to have excessive vibration as it spins in the bushings. The excessive vibration will lead to the rotor shaft elongating the bushing holes throwing the rotor off center. With the rotor no longer centered it will make contact with the housing wall and with continued use it will no longer spin.The SOLUTION:The obvious solution of warranty repair work aside, I suspect that this pump is common across various whirlpool owned brands and models of dishwasher. I have a Whirlpool WDT780SAEM1, this pump is not supposed to be compatible with my unit. This is most likely true because the pump top ( the black part with the inlet and outlet hose connection) may be different size and fit for various dishwasher models. However, turning the black top a quarter turn will separate the top from the pump body. I believe that the pump body is common to various models. This was the case with my unit. The replacement work is simple. With the unit removed from under the cabinet and turned on its side exposing the bottom ( elevate the bottom to cause the residual water to run down towards the top of the unit and not leak out onto your floor.) disconnect the motor electrical connector. Pull at a slight angle on the motor housing until it is freed from the sub assembly. Then turn the pump housing a quarter turn to free it from the black top with the inlet and outlet piping connection. Swap in the new pump housing and reverse the steps to re-assembly.CONCLUSION: Since the replacement pump has the same design as the OEM, I suspect that the bushings will fail within the same time frame and level of use as the original part. Buying this pump at around $60 sure bits paying around $160 for the entire assembly, not to mention the additional labor time it will take to replace. There is a guy on youtube who replaced the bushings with bearings, this may very well extend the life of the pump.

perfect replacement